Alsace & Black Forest

Since we visited Strasbourg and Breitnau during our Rhine cruise in 2007, we’ve always wanted to go back and tour the region in greater detail. This plan does that in a week and a half.

MONTUEWEDTHUFRISATSUN
123
Fly to FRAArrive in FRA
Freiberg
Freiberg
45678910
FreibergFreibergFreibergFreiberg to StrasbourgStrasbourgStrasbourg to MainzMainz
11
Fly home from FRA

Day 1

Lufthansa has a non-stop flight to Frankfurt.


Day 2 – Arriving in the morning we’d pick up a rental car and drive approx 3 hours south to the Black Forest border town of Freiburg. We’ll be making 1 stop on the way for lunch at Speyer.

We can’t miss a visit to the Speyer Cathedral, officially known as the Cathedral of St. Mary and St. Stephen, is the world’s largest surviving Romanesque church. Its huge triple-naved vaulted basilica is the central element in a design that greatly influenced Romanesque architecture in the 11th and 12th centuries. Its fully-preserved crypt is also the largest Romanesque columned hall in Europe. Size really does matter in Speyer Cathedral. Apart from the largest body-count of Holy Roman Emperors and kings under the high altar, it boasts the monster Cathedral Bowl outside the main door. With a capacity of 1,560 litres, every new bishop has had to fill it with wine as a gift to the people. After our visit to the Cathedral we can walk around or have a seat a a local cafe for lunch.

After our stop in Speyer we head the rest of the way to our southern basecamp in Freiburg im Breisgau, a vibrant university city in southwest Germany’s Black Forest, is known for its temperate climate and reconstructed medieval old town, crisscrossed by picturesque brooks (bächle). In the surrounding highlands, hiking destination Schlossberg hill is linked to Freiburg by a funicular. With a dramatic 116m spire, the Gothic cathedral Freiburg Minster towers over the central square Münsterplatz.

We’ll be staying at the Courtyard Marriott a modern hotel just a few min walk to the Münsterplatz.



Day 3 – Freiburg

+ Titisee – Ravenna Bridge

Day 4 – A drive north

3.5 hrs driving

Mummelsee – Allerheiligen

Last stop as we head out of the Black Forest is an amazing Winery called Weingut Markgraf von Baden at Schloss Staufenberg. A beautiful winery in the foothills of the Black Forest at the site of the ruins of a Castle just seems like a moment not to be missed. A glass of wine sitting out on the patio with views for miles.


Day 5 – Drive to Colmar


Day 6 – Colmar

Eguisheim – Settled by the Senones tribe, and made a center for wine-cultivation by the Romans, the village of today didn’t develop until the 11th century when the Dukes of Alsace built here a castle here. The village hasn’t changed much since the Middle Ages, with its well-preserved half-timbered houses dating back to the town’s foundation. The brightly-colored houses are complemented by bursts of blooming flower, which has earned the village the France’s highest award for town garden planting. The Rue du Rempart Sud, which follows the town’s old moat, now circles the entire medieval center and is a great way to experience the town’s charm. In the Place du Chateau, along with with the colorful chateau, church, houses, and fountain visitors will find a family of nesting storks.


Day 7 – Freiburg to Strasbourg

Neuf-Brisach

Kaysersberg – In the 13th century, the fortified settlement of Castrum Keisersberg was established along the route that connected the Rhine plain and Lorraine. By the 14th century, Kaysersberg had become a free imperial city, though gradually fell into obscurity after passing to the French in the 17th century. Today, traditional half-timbered houses still line the river that runs through the town. Much of the town dates from the 16th century, including the fortified stone bridge spanning the Weiss river. The Church Sainte-Croix was built between the 13th and 15th centuries, and has retained its Romanesque facade. After enjoying the historic towers, ramparts, and mansions, visitors can sit down at a cafe to enjoy the town’s signature wine: Tokay, which is believed to have been brought from Hungary in the 16th century.

Riquewihr – Dating back to the ancient Romans, Riquewihr flourished as a fortified village in the Middle Ages, and miraculously escaped World War II unscathed. Now listed as one of the ‘most beautiful villages of France’, the village looks much as it did in the 17th century, complete with fortified walls, colorful half timbered houses, and lots of flowers. On Rue du General de Gaulle, the main street, visitors can stop at the Tourist Office for a map. However many of the most interesting buildings are on the same street. Attractions not on the main street include the 13th century Dolder tower, part of the town’s original fortifications. In front of the Dolder is ‘the fountain of gauging’, which was used to check the capacity of wine barrels. The Thieves Tower is pentagonal on the outside and square on the inside, and still has a torture chamber inside.

Finally we arrive in Strasbourg France. We’ll be staying in the old town on the island at the Sofitel Strasbourg Grande Île, just a 1/3 mi from the famous Strasbourg Notre Dam Cathedral. I’m always going to pick the hotel with a purple theme. That this one also has underground parking for our car is a bonus.


Day 8 – Strasbourg

Cathedral, Canal Cruise

Dinner – La Cloche à Fromage

Try perfectly cooked cheese fondue, raclette and blue cheese. The cooks here prepare good parfait, che and cheesecakes. Drink delicious pinot grigio, cordial or Kir, it’s a must when visiting this place. Come here and have great latte.

The warm atmosphere of this spot makes customers feel relaxed and have a good time. The positive aspect of this restaurant is that the staff is friendly. Spectacular service is something clients appreciate here.


Day 9 Strasbourg to Mainz

Today we relocate to our last stop, Mainz, Germany. Straight thru the drive is about 3 hours but on the way we’ll make a few stops.

From Oudenkirk we’ll head to north to Karlsruhe Palace, we can either stop for a photo or decide to go in and visit the Palace. The palace forms the axis with 32 streets and avenues shooting out into the city of Karlsruhe, hence its nickname of ‘Fan City’. The palace was built in 1715 and Karlsruhe soon grew around it. By German standards, the city is still relatively young and is regarded as more liberal than most with a reputation for encouraging art and culture to flourish. The palace is surrounded by immaculately maintained gardens and forestry at the back.

At the top of every visitor’s list is the symbolic heart of the city — the red-sandstone Heidelberg Castle, which is consistently voted by foreign visitors as the top tourist attraction in Germany. Visitors can wander the grounds and from the castle walls, marvel at the views of the Old Town that never fail to thrill. The Old Town itself is a must see in order to sample the charms of the elegant churches, picture book lanes, and alleyways set against the backdrop of the beautiful Neckar River. This area of the city also contains the longest pedestrianized shopping strip in Germany. Slightly out from the center, but no less impressive is Philosophers’ Way, the name given to the path just above the city that allegedly inspired the philosophers of old. The path offers fabulous views and is often described as ‘peaceful, romantic and beautiful, a place to commune with nature’.



At the end of our journey we reach our hotel in Mainz, the Mainz Hilton.

The Mainz Old Town isn’t incredibly large and is just a short walk from the hotel. Once we drop off our luggage we can take a walk and explore the city.

After our walk around town we’ll find a restaurant to take a rest and have a good meal with good wine (as we are in the German Wine Region). Heiliggeist is just off the main square. Its a converted old church that makes a great background for a good evening. It also has a great courtyard for outside seating as well.


Day 10 – Mainz

Today we take a wine tour. Bordering on the outskirts of Mainz the vineyards of Rheinhessen and Rheingau are perfectly located for a great day out with visits to some of the most dynamic winemakers. You will taste not only beautiful Rieslings but also fantastic examples of Silvaner, Pinots, Chardonnay.


Day 11 – Fly home

SpringFest in Munich

Springfest in Munich is known as the little sister of Oktoberfest. Crowds are lower, the people are more local and there is just as much fun. Springfest takes place the last week of April and the first week of May over the May 1 holiday, Maibaumaufstellen.

Munich, GermanySalzburg, AustriaNuremberg
4 Nights4 Nights4 Nights
Munich
Springfest
Ulm
Konigsee
Salzburg
Eagles Nest
Hallstatt
Nuremberg
Regensburg
Bamberg

Day 0 Leave Portland

Day 1 Arrive in Munich, Germany

Hotel: NH Collection Munchen Bavaria (152.24 EUR/Night) Right near train station

Day 2 Munich Sightseeing

Day 3 Springfest

Day 4 Springfest

Day 5 Munich, Germany to Salzburg, Austria with stop at Konigsee

Day 6 Salzburg, Austria

Day 7 Day Trip to Hallstatt, Austria

Day 8 Day Trip to Eagles Nest, Austria

Day 9 Salzburg, Austria – Herrenchiemsee – Nuremburg

Photo by Ram Lanka on Unsplash

Day 10 Nuremberg

Day 11 Regensburg

Day 12 Bamberg

Day 13 Travel back to Munich

Day 14 Fly Home

Cologne, Aachen & Heidelberg Christmas Markets

I’ve been to Christmas Markets in Germany & Austria. Nuremburg and Vienna are some of my favorites. I’ve been to Cologne and Heidelberg in the springtime and absolutely loved our time there. Now I’m ready to combine two things I love – Christmas Markets and Rhine River Cities into one awesome trip. Follow me I as research this trip and add detail to this journey!

Cologne is 1h by train or 2h by car from the Frankfurt Airport and Aachen is another hour. This trip is scheduled to be 9 days understanding 2 1/2 of those days are travel days.

Here is one of our favorite travel couples. They visit 6 markets in one day & night.

Overall Timeline

SATSUNMONTUEWEDTHUFRI
Fly OutFrankfurt to
Cologne
CologneAachen Day TripCologneCologne to
Heidelberg
Heidelberg
Heidelberg to FrankfurtFly Home

Day 1 (Saturday)

PDX to Frankfurt

Leaving in the morning from PDX, we need to arrive in Frankfurt around 9:00 AM. 


Day 2 (Sunday)

Frankfurt to Cologne

MorningAfternoonEvening
Arrive in FrankfurtEberbach Abbey & Winery Cologne Advent Christmas Market
Abbey TavernPeters Brauhaus

Once we arrive and make it through customs, we are picked up by our private transfer and head to Cologne. We’ll leave the airport around 10:30 am and just outside of Frankfurt, overlooking the Main River, we’ll make a stop at Eberbach Abbey & Winery. We’ll spend 2 hours touring the 12th century Abbey and 18th century Winery and then visiting their small Christmas Market on the grounds.

Then we’ll make it to Cologne by 3pm just in time for checking at our hotel, the CityClass Hotel Alter Markt. The hotel is situated at the entrance to the best market in Cologne. Lets drop off our bags and explore the market and grab some food and glühwein!

The Weinachtsmarkt koelner spans from the old town square where we are staying to the heumarkt. This market has an ice skating rink, bavarian curling rinks, handicraft booths, and lots and lots of Food and drink…

Map of the market

Here’s a great video of the food of this market. Just a note – while this couple thinks they are visiting 2 markets besides the one at the Dom, its actually just this 1 very large, very beautiful market.


Day 3 (Monday)

Cologne

MorningAfternoonEvening
Cologne Weinachtsmarkt Cologne Cathedral
Market Food

With a bit less crowds we can take a second run at the Weinachtsmarkt Koelner outside our hotel this morning.

At 2 pm is the Cologne Cathedral tour in english, https://www.domfuehrungen-koeln.de/fuehrung-durch-den-innenraum/public-guided-tours-in-english.

With its imposing Gothic façade and dramatic twin towers, the Cologne Cathedral (Kölner Dom) is the city’s most recognized landmark. Protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the magnificent cathedral is one of the most important in Germany and dominates the city skyline.

After visiting the church there is another market in the plaza in front of the market.

Here is a map of the market

On the way back to our hotel (about 2 blocks), is a small intimate Market on Am hof – the Advent Village Market. Don’t forget to make a stop! 

Definitely get a reservation for dinner, Peters Brauhaus, is just 250 ft from our hotel and the market.


Day 4 (Tuesday)

Daytrip to Aachen

MorningAfternoonEvening
Travel from Cologne to AachenAachen Cathedral Aachen Christmas Market
Aachen Christmas Market FoodPostwagen Zum Ratskeller
or
Goldener Schwan

Take a private transfer from Cologne to Aachen for a day trip!

Aachen is a town on the borders of Germany, Belgium and Holland about a 50 min from Cologne. Aachen is one of Europe’s most important cities with historical significance. This prominent city is where several German Kings (Holy Roman Emperors) were crowned. The city is filled with buildings dating back to the medieval period, old city gates, and beautiful fountains.

Located in the heart of the old city, Aachen Cathedral is one of the main attractions of Aachen. Its architecture and features still highlight the significance and imposing nature of the building, which was completed at the end of the 8th century at the request of Emperor Charlemagne. It is also the final resting place of King Charlemagne. Some of the other major attractions are Aachen Cathedral Treasury, Rathaus, Couven-Museum, and Suermondt-Ludwig-Museum.

The Aachen Christmas Market conveniently located right in front of the Aachen Cathedral. We will spend the rest of the day/night at the market eating and drinking our way through.

The Market is open until 9pm.


Day 5 (Wednesday)

Cologne

MorningAfternoonEvening
Cologne Chocolate MuseumHarbor MarketChristmas Markets
Chocolate Cafe L’Osteria Köln Zollhafen
or Harbor Market

We’ll take a taxi over to the Chocolate museum for a 10am Brunch or Chocolate Treat at their Chocolate Cafe.

Opened by local chocolatier Hans Imhoff in 1993, the Cologne Chocolate Museum (Schokoladenmuseum) is devoted to Cologne’s chocolate-making history. This fun attraction lets visitors peek behind the scenes of a working chocolate factory and sample delicious Lindt chocolate. After our time in the Cafe, we’ll tour the museum and sample the chocolates in the Chocolate shop!

The Cologne Harbor Christmas Market is a riverside Christmas market along the Rhine with a nautical theme and a more relaxed, airy atmosphere than the city’s other larger markets. It offers a selection of food, drinks, and local crafts in a cozy, yet festive, waterfront setting, making it a popular, albeit smaller, seasonal event.

Next we’ll head to the Angel Market. At Neumarkt, centrally located near the larger shopping streets, the Market of Angels presents itself as an enchanting Christmas wonderland. Countless glowing stars and fairy lights in the trees create a special atmosphere. Wide alleys invite you to stroll and linger between the elaborately designed houses, and from time to time, illuminated mythical creatures on stilts and magical angels can be seen.

Next we walked about 1/3 mile to the Village of St. Nicholas at Rudolfplatz. The “St. Nicholas’ Village”, staged on Rudolfplatz in the city centre, is situated in front of the historic Hahnentorburg gate. The magical Christmas world offers a unique world of experiences and St. Nicholas and Santa Claus are omnipresent. The “house of St. Nicholas”, the huge “advent calendar”, the “village chapel” and the “children’s workshop” whisk visitors away into a world of Christmas magic.


Day 6 (Thursday)

Cologne to Heidelberg

MorningAfternoonEvening
Walk around townTravel to HeidelbergChristmas Market
?Mainz Christmas MarketMarket Food

We will private transfer to out of Cologne to Heidelberg around 11:00am. On the way we’ll stop in Mainz.

Mainz is a city where 2,000 years of history breathes through every cobblestoned street. The birthplace of Johannes Gutenberg, who invented the printing press and introduced letterpress printing to Europe, this Rhine-side gem charms visitors with its medieval cathedral, patrician town houses, narrow lanes, and beautiful squares that reflect the fascinating history of the city. Half-timbered buildings dating from the 17th and 18th centuries create an intimate, manageable old town filled with distinctive pink-red sandstone architecture. As the wine capital of Germany, cozy wine taverns are tucked behind baroque and rococo façades and add to the city’s warm, welcoming atmosphere.

from Tall Girl Big World, Mainz Christmas Market Guide

The Mainz Christmas Market dates back to 1788, making it one of the most historic Christmas markets in Germany. Set against the 1,000-year-old St. Martin’s cathedral, the market creates a magical atmosphere with about 100 lovingly decorated and illuminated stands. What makes this market special is its perfect size—while big city markets can get shoulder-to-shoulder crowded and small town markets might lack variety, Mainz fits perfectly in the middle with plenty of local families creating an upbeat, genuine atmosphere, plus seating areas where you can relax rather than just standing and eating. Handcraft lovers will be impressed by the artists’ factory that serves all sorts of handmade pieces, and with everything walkable in the compact old town, you can explore the main market, and wander charming side streets lined with half-timbered houses all within our two-hour stop.

from Tall Girl Big World, Mainz Christmas Market Guide

Then off to Heidelberg, where we’ll be dropped off at our Hotel, NH Heidelberg City Center around 3:30pm. This hotel is the former Heidelberg Brewery converted in 2005 to a hotel. This is approximately a 2.5 hour drive.

Once we check in, we can rest for a little bit then head out to do a little exploring in the old town. Heidelberg is a beautiful town on the river Neckar and is steeped in history. With five different Christmas market squares offering over 140 stalls spread across the cobbled streets of the medieval old town, plus an ice skating rink beneath the castle, Heidelberg effortlessly blends centuries of history with enchanting holiday magic.

A guide to Heidelberg Christmas Markets


Day 7 (Friday)

Heidelberg

MorningAfternoonEvening
Heidelberg CastleChristmas MarketChristmas Market
Hotel Breakfast?Market Food Vetter’s Alt Heidelberger Brauhaus

Today, we’ll climb the hills via funicular to the ruins of the Heidelberg castle. Tickets for the Funicular and Castle are combined and cost 11 Euro/person. Rides begin at 9am and go every 10 minutes. The ruins of Heidelberg Castle majestically tower over the valley and river below. Built as a fortified castle with towers, casemates and moats in around 1300, the site developed over 400 years to become the feudal flagship of the Palatinate Electors.

Once back in the town we’ll walk around the town visiting the sights and the market on our own terms. We can’t miss out on walking down to the river and checking out the

from HelenInBetween Ultimate Heidelberg Guide

For Dinner, Vetter’s Alt Heidelberger Brauhaus is recommended. Its a modern brewery in the old area of town the reviews are fantastic we should be able to find a taxi back to the hotel after.


Day 8 (Saturday)

Heidelberg to Frankfurt

MorningAfternoonEvening
Travel to FrankfurtChristmas MarketChristmas Market
Hotel Breakfast?Market Food Schwarzer Stern or
Frankfurter Wirtshaus

Its a 1 hour transfer from Heidelberg to the Frankfurt. We will stay in the Frankfurt old town overnight so we can get one more day and night of Christmas markets in!


Day 9 (Sunday)

Fly Home

We’ll transfer from Downtown Frankfurt to the Frankfurt airport where we board a plane and head home.


Trip Budget

What/When/WhereByPrice Per Person (4)
Hotel – Cologne (4)CityClass AlterMarkt$ 1482.55$370.64
Hotel – Heidelberg (2)NH Heidelberg$617.40$154.35
Hotel – Frankfurt (1)Hotel Motel One$286.00$71.50
Hotels$2385.95$596.49
Transfer FRA-ColDay Trips$722.00$180.00
Round Trip AachenTransfer$346.11$86.53
Transfer to HBDay Trips$830.00$207.50
Transfer to FRFTransfer$197.74$49.44
Transfer to FRATransfer$63.61$15.90
Transfers$2289.46$578.87
AirfareUnited$4400.00$1,100.00
Admission$285.12$71.28
Total$9368.53$2346.63
Food + Stuff for 7d$150 per day $4200.00$1050.00
Grand Total $13,568.53$3396.63